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As the name suggests, the Black Pig of Bigorre has an entirely black coat. These pigs are medium to large in size, with adults weighing between 150 and 200 kg. They are characterized by a stocky and muscular body, robust legs, and solid hooves. Their ears often point forward and are slightly drooping. The skin is thick with fine black hair.
The meat of the Black Pig of Bigorre is generally redder than that of other pigs. It is renowned for being particularly tender and juicy, with an intense and rich flavor, often described as having nutty notes and a unique complexity. The meat contains good marbling, with intramuscular fat that melts during cooking and enhances the taste.
The Black Pig of Bigorre benefits from an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and an Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP), which guarantees its geographical origin and traditional production methods.
The Black Pig of Bigorre is a cousin of the Spanish pata negra and almost disappeared under the pressure from industrial breeds. This magnificent Gascon pig, originating from the former regions of Hautes-Pyrénées, Gers, and Haute-Garonne, has a long history. Traces of pig farming date back to the Neolithic era in Central Europe when humans settled and invented agriculture. For a long time, this pig was the backbone of a self-sufficient rural economy, fed with farm cereals, pasture, and seasonal fruits.
In 1981, there were only thirty-four sows and two boars of the Black Pig of Bigorre left. A handful of breeders, butchers, and salters decided to save this emblematic animal of the Pyrenean heritage. Today, about sixty breeders, including Patrick Escudé, take great care of these pigs raised outdoors in woods and meadows, with no more than twenty animals per hectare.
The Black Pig of Bigorre is fed grass, acorns in the fall, and non-GMO cereals: wheat, oats, barley, and rye. It is slaughtered at a minimum age of one year, while industrial pigs are killed at six months. Its hams are a praise to slowness and fat with an immaculate white, rich in oleic fatty acids, similar to those found in olive oil, contributing to the prevention of bad cholesterol.
Salted with rock salt from the Adour basin, the hams are left to rest at low temperature for ten to sixteen weeks. They then dry for two months before being aged for at least twelve months.
Photos: Grégoire Kalt